By: Janiyah Gaston and Dominique Martinez-Powell
A hot topic in the modeling industry is the lack of representation and for good reason. Historically, the representation has not been in favor of Black models. According to Zippa, only 17% of runway models are Black. To shed light on the lack of representation, Black models from Vanity Fashion Fair Models and Essence Fashion Models share their perspective on Black Women in the industry.
Ryon White, a third-year student and President of Vanity Fashion Fair Models said he got into modeling because he wants to make an impact on campus.
“I enjoy dancing and I dress well, so it just felt like this was something that would help me leave my mark at SIUC. I’ve had a pretty great experience overall as a model on campus. It has brought much attention to me. It seems like there’s a shortage of male models on campus, so being one of the few, I get a lot of eyes on me,” White said.
The attention from being in a modeling group has been overwhelming due to all the attention White gets. The experience overall is great, he said.
White pointed out, in addition to Black models being forced to work twice as hard to be seen, colorism also plays a big part in the stress of being a Black model.
“I recognize that lighter skin is more appreciated than darker skin complexions. I think there is a divide in the Black community that fetishes lighter skin or mixed skin tones rather than appreciating the darker tones. [...] Colorism shouldn’t be a thing in 2024,” White said.
Black models end up burning themselves out keeping up with the pressure of satisfying beauty standards that were not set for them, he said.
“I feel like Black women are more pressured because it seems like they do more work to be seen, than white women in the same positions, who do the bare minimum to get noticed, he said. You can be a mediocre talented person like Kendall Jenner and get more praise for doing less work than models like Winnie Harlow.”
Kayla Vaughn, a fourth-year student, said her experience as a model for Essence Fashion Models has really boosted her confidence and pushed her out of her comfort zone.
“It is mind blowing to me how easy it is for me to be on stage knowing my history of shying away from elementary school performances. Also, all the people I have met (on and off campus) have had an interesting mark on how I interact with people,” she said.
Vaughn said while she is studying fashion right now, she hopes to go into modeling professionally and work with many fashion brands.
Since studying fashion, she has noticed the roadblocks Black women had to face in the industry are starting to fade into the background thanks to the changes in society.
“Now and days people love Black women. I see on Instagram independent Black models posting every day to hopefully reach modeling agencies. [..] Also, with the fashion industry getting so much backlash over not using curvy or plus size models on the runway that has opened the door for our curvy/plus size Black girls,” she said.
Markayla Oneal, a fourth-year student, and Vice President of Vanity Fashion Fair Models said being able to do modeling on campus is a great way to make connections and inspire others.
“Being a Black model on campus is a great privilege, you always will be needed Whether you [are] teaching girls how to be confident, holding their head up, heel to toe or toe to heel. It is a great source of networking and inspiring others. As well as you getting inspired,” Oneal said.
One of the biggest problems among Black women in the modeling work is gatekeeping and lack of connections, she said.
“Black women[’s] biggest downfall is connecting and gatekeeping. A lot of Black women tend to think if they’re pretty they can get in. They must know an agency [that will] work for [them] and with [them], it’s all about networking, it’s a collaboration,” she said.
Oneal emphasized, when working in the modeling industry you need to be open to asking for help and questions.
“BE YOURSELF, SOME GROUP OR AGENCY IS GOING TO LIKE YOU FOR YOU,” Oneal said.
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